Monday, January 19, 2009

Alice in Wonderland

My Alaskan journey started with one of the longest flights possible all the way from little Tasmania. Flying into Anchorage I was fortunate to get my first glimpse at the Aurora Borealis, a swirl of green light floating in the sky. My first step outside is one I won't forget in any hurry... any exposed skin just seemed to freeze... I only survived thanks to the coat, gloves and hat I was supplied with when met at the airport by Dad and Karla.


You know you're in Alaska when you attend every event in your Sorrels... like everyone around you. For those who don't know - it's a warm boot - a must for any Alaskan.

After a good sleep-in and a quick shopping session for those warm boots, I was ready to experience some of what Alaska had to offer in the middle of winter. We started by seeing the celebrations for Alaska being a state for 50 years! A big milestone for this young state. I even witnessed watching Sarah Palin talk (not that that's always worth bragging about).


Next on our list was to see an ice hockey game. We were to watch the Alaska Aces vs Stockton Thunder - an exciting match to say the least. Even after all my efforts of cheering loud enough with a cowbell (a unique tradition for winter sports), the Aces were unfortunate to lose 2-1 after extra time.
My first week saw Dad and I make the 2 1/2hr drive down to Seward from Anchorage, passing through spectacluar scenery with snow-covered mountains surrounding us. I was organised to volunteer with the mammal department at the Alaska SeaLife Center. With a fun and helpful team which included Brett, Heather, Elizabeth, Megan, Brian and Christy to show me around, I was soon helping to weigh out the large amounts of fish sea lions and harbour seals seem to go through! I met the three Stellar Sea Lions - Woody, Kiska and Sugar, and all the harbour seals - my favourite being Atty (aka fatty Atty). Of course a photo session was in need - the animals didn't seem to mind but their fish breath was something else...

All too quickly my first week in this alien world was over; but with it brought some exciting news - we were heading to Chena Hot Springs, Fairbanks for the weekend... a paradise like no other! We took a tour of the geothermal plant the resort used for all of its energy, getting some inspiration to become green. Then it was on to the fun stuff. One step in to the ice hotel took our breath away and not because it was cold in there (it was actually a lot warmer than outside - set at 20F, or -7C). The ice sculptures were incredible, all lit up with multi-coloured LED lights. The hotel was complete with two bedrooms, an ice bar, an igloo, a stage with a lecturn and a big chess set... there was even a toilet made of ice in one the bedrooms! I must admit the beds were hard, but not cold at all because of the animal fur covering the ice.

Next on the agenda saw us gearing up for the coldest experience of our lives - waiting up most of the night in possible 40 below temperatures to see and hopefully photograph the Aurora Borealis. On went the leggings, trousers, ski pants and threes pairs of socks on the bottom half and on went 7 layers of warmth on top. Of course there was also a pair of gloves and mittens, two scarves, ear warmers and a balaclava. The life-saver for the hands had to be the special hand-warmers that stayed warm all night... I wish as much could be said about the feet warmers that seemed to freeze in the first couple of minutes...

We drove for about an 1hr up a steep hill in special trucks to arrive at the viewing spot, where it was nice to find two yurts with heaters that everyone crowded around. Dad, Karla and I felt the odd ones out in amongst all the Japanese tourists. We waited, and waited... having regular hot chocolates and/or hot soup to keep us awake and warm. To pass the time we heard one of the Japanese ladies sing opera for us and I was making sure my camera was set up for when the time came to photograph the northern lights. And then, at 1:30am we got the call that the lights had arrived! Everyone rushed outside, cameras at the ready... and it was truly magnificent. A green ribbon filled a portion of the bright sky due to the full moon out that night. It was well worth the adventure up the hill, the waiting and the cold just to see this natural phenomenon.


After a well-earned sleep, we were up again ready for another day of excitement. This time, it meant getting into our bathers to go swimming in the hot springs! The walk from inside to the outdoor rock pool was freezing... but of course we had to pose for photos before entering the warmth of the water. It was a relaxing 30-35C in the water but a bitter -30C out of the water! Soon enough our hair and eyelashes froze... a real arctic look for anyone!
All too soon we were boarding the plane to fly back to Anchorage after a surreal weekend at Fairbanks.

The next week saw us head back down to Seward for the second time. For two days I helped out in the bird department with Heidi, Tasha, Gwen, Seth and Natalie. The types of birds included Spectacled Eiders, Stellers Eiders, Common Eiders, Pigeon Guillemots, Common Murres and Harlequin Ducks. My favourite birds are pictured left, who would follow anyone around to score some fish!

After watching the annual Polar Bear Jump on Saturday - where crazy people dress up and jump into the icy depths of the water off the coast of Seward (at least it's all for a good cause!) - we headed back to Anchorage.

On Thursday we jetted off to Juneau (fyi - the only capital in USA you can't get to by road) for a brief stay in a little city with a big history! Established as a goldmining town and now known for politics and tourism, it's full of amazing gift shops full to the ceiling with treasures made by the Tlingits - an incredible native Alaskan group who had more time for cultural activities than other natives because of the climate and abundance of resources found in the south-eastern area of Alaska. Juneau also happens to be the only capital that has a glacier in the city's vacinity! We made a quick visit and it was amazing to note that where we stood photographing, the glacier once reached!







The weekend flew by and we were once again found driving to Seward... stopping only for a visit to the zoo and a snowshoe! My last couple days in this spectacularly beautiful place included helping out again in the mammal department and a few more intense games of rummy... but we won't mention the running tally.

This holiday has brought many amazing, unique experiences in what truly is a winter wonderland.


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